Method for producing tubular knitwear items and products obtained thereby

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to tubular knitwear items provided with suitable openings or holes (H) automatically obtained for shoulder straps (SS, SD), neck portions (GC), belts, strings, stripes, knots (K), loops and the like, i.e. for various applications and purposes, such as anatomic support, and for aesthetic and functional connections and weavings also with other manufactured items. The invention coordinates the suitable needle (A) selection according to the jacquard design and to the work cycle of the knitting machine and enable, for definite fabric areas and needles (A), the temporary stop of the knitting process and the subsequent stitch discharge, followed by the production of new fabric stitches, also with needle discard and floating yarns (FF) so as to obtain transparent effects and the production of fringes.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The introduction of “full electronic” circular knitting machines withdifferentiated diameters has attracted the knitting industry's interestsince their versatility allows to produce a wide range of tubular items,such as for instance bras, brassieres, pants, dresses, trousers,“fuseaux” (tight trousers), skirts, teddies, swimsuits, technical itemsand more. But due to some inherent technical and textile limitations,such as for instance the lack of shoulder straps, belts, loops, strings,ribbons and various openings, most of the aforementioned knitwear itemssystematically require laborious and expensive additional finishingoperations such as cutting and sewing, with the subsequent fabric scrapswhich affect production costs extensively and permanently. As isgenerally known, Italian patent no. 1288310 provides for variousembodiments concerning the production of shoulder straps, loops orbraces, or various openings for legs and arms; these solutions, however,show technical difficulties and additional costs due to the complexmechanisms involving fabric pick-up and transport from one side of theneedle cylinder to the other side.

AIMS OF THE PRESENT INVENTION

The present invention aims at reducing to a significant extent or atwholly eliminating the aforesaid technical and productive limitations,so as to automatically obtain semi-finished or finished tubular knitwearitems, preferably provided with shoulder straps, loops, fabric stripes,buttonholes and various openings, also with floating yarns, withoriginal productive, technical, aesthetic and commercial purposes. Allthis stated, a main aim of the present invention consists in providing amethod and apparatus for producing tubular items, also shaped or fitted,provided with one or more holes or openings, also quite wide, said itemsbeing automatically produced by the suitable selection and presence ofthe elements directly or indirectly involved in the knitting process,such as for instance jacks, needles, under-needles and fabric sinkers.An additional aim consists in providing a method and apparatus forproducing said tubular items provided with at least a fabric half-ring,preferably introduced into one or more holes of said item or used forthe aesthetic or functional connection or weaving with a separate item.Another aim consists in providing a method and apparatus for producingitems provided with one or more loops or fabric stripes, which areconnected to the knitted tube only on their ends, also with theirfloating yarns only, being automatically produced by the suitablepresence or absence of needles. A further aim consists in providing saidtubular items with one or more zones without fabric, said zone beingautomatically produced by the suitable selection of the elementsdirectly or indirectly involved in the knitting process, and beingcovered with floating yarns. An additional aim consists in producingsaid tubular items provided with one or more openings or holescharacterized by a plurality of floating yarns. Further aims will beevident from the description, examples and accompanying drawings, per seor in combination, beyond the final claims.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

The above mentioned aims are substantially achieved by a method forproducing tubular knitwear items by discharging and taking up singlestitches following a given pattern, also with needle discard andfloating yarns, and products obtained thereby, according to the appendedclaims. The characteristics of the invention and the advantagesresulting therefrom will be more evident from the following descriptionof embodiments provided by way of example, which can be advantageouslyapplied to the majority of knitting machines.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The description will be made with reference to the accompanying drawingsin which:

FIG. 1 shows a brassiere produced according to the prior art;

FIG. 2 shows a brassiere provided with neck portion and floating yarns,produced according to the present invention;

FIGS. 3 and 4 show different embodiments of brassieres provided withneck portion, holes and floating yarns, produced according to thepresent invention;

FIG. 5 shows a knitted item with a first band introduced into a hole andinto a second band;

FIG. 6 shows another embodiment of a brassiere;

FIGS. 7 and 8 show the steps for introducing a neck portion of abrassiere into a hole of the brassiere;

FIGS. 9 and 10 show two embodiments of a brassiere provided withfloating yarns FF;

FIG. 11 shows one of the brassieres of FIG. 9 or 10 which undergoes atorsion in the zone K between the breasts with an anatomicallyinteresting shaping;

FIG. 12 shows one of the brassieres of FIG. 9 or 10 which is completelyknotted in the zone K between the breasts with another shaping;

FIGS. 13, 14 and 15 are different embodiments of knitted items withwelts 2 and 3 close one to the other or overlap by means of additionalexternal elements 9 or K;

FIGS. 16 and 17 show two dresses with different arrangements of floatingyarns FF, which can also be cut such as FFC;

FIGS. 18 and 19 show two different embodiments of collars stronglycharacterized by floating yarns;

FIG. 20 shows the collar of FIG. 19 with a tie introduced therein;

FIG. 21 shows a collar provided with a hole H in which a tie has beenintroduced;

FIGS. 22, 22A and 22B show the front portions of different embodimentsof pants provided with holes and floating yarns, also cut and knotted;

FIGS. 23 and 23A show the rear portion of two pants 1 with floatingyarns FF which are also variously woven;

FIG. 24 shows a fabric with a central zone having floating yarns FF;

FIG. 24A graphically shows a jersey fabric interrupted between M and M1by floating yarns FFL alternated to the fabric;

FIGS. 24B and 24C graphically show jersey fabrics interrupted bydifferent applications of intermeshed floating yarns FFI and FFT,variously manipulated and knitted for the different embodiments of theinvention;

FIG. 25 technically show the mechanical-textile diagrams, i.e. thesequences to be followed in the production of the three-dimensional knitfrills Bi;

FIG. 26 is a front view of a fabric having frills Bi made only with oddneedles AD, with even needles AP not operating;

FIG. 26A shows a needle A, usually housed within a bed or cylinder, onwhose stem the underlying fabric and the inner frill Bi are stillengaged;

FIG. 27 is a perspective view of needles starting the sequences for theproduction of knit frills Bi, by weaving a single “bridle”;

FIG. 28 shows a missing stitch W and a single “bridle” BR of the needle2 within a knitted structure;

FIG. 29 is a technical key for the pattern of FIG. 11;

FIG. 30 is a side view of a needle A and a latch-opening device AL;

FIG. 31 is a plan view of a portion of cylinder CYL with the hook U of aneedle and an adjacent latch-opening device AL;

FIGS. 32, 33 and 34 are a sequence of lateral views of needles A andsinkers PM during the discharge of the last fabric stitches B.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

The following description will be carried out, with descriptive andnon-limiting purposes only, with reference to a circular knittingmachine for producing tubular knitted items in general comprising atleast: a needle bed or rotary cylinder versus fixed cams or vice versa;a complete working feed, provided with one or more yarn feeders, alsomoving feeders; preferably electronic needle selection for controllingthe elements involved in the knitting process according to a work cycleand/or a jacquard design; cams for knitting which can also beindividually adjusted by means of a computer; a device for openingneedle latches upon actuation; a fabric suction or pulling system; saidmachine being also equipped with a dial with selectable needles orjacks, beyond the usual yarn suction and cutting device. In particularmost of the description relates to a “full electronic” single-cylindercircular machine such as for instance Santoni SM8. In the example takenfrom the prior art shown in FIG. 1, the traditional breast band orbrassiere 1 consists of the jersey fabric MJ delimited by the usualupper two-layer elastic band 2 and lower two-layer elastic band 3. Theshoulder straps SS and SD are first produced and then undergo acutting-sewing operation, whereas the aesthetic and functional problemon the central part CA, i.e. the elimination of excess fabric beyondhatched lines 4, so as to obtain the classic breast shape. In a firstpreferred embodiment the invention is firstly carried out by preparing awork cycle or jacquard design, i.e. direct inputs to needles or jacks orother elements directly or indirectly involved in the knitting process,by means of a graphics workstation or other control and memory devices,i.e. by means of electromechanical, magnetic and optical apparatus, orother means suitable to said purpose. During its production, which canindifferently start from the aforesaid band 2 or 3, the manufactureditem 1 of FIGS. 2-3-4 is generally modified according to the presentinvention both by producing floating yarns FF and individual holes H,variously placed, and by detaching a suitable number of successivestitches or loops in the direction of the courses, usually less than360° of the needle cylinder. In the specific case the detachment of theabove-mentioned stitches takes places on the arrows F and F1 around theneedle cylinder, but for the front portion usually corresponding to saidfloating yarns FF or holes H. In practice the almost complete detachmentof the upper band 2, which has just been manufactured, can take place inat least two ways: by means of a special thermo-soluble yarn usedlocally in specific areas, which totally or partially melts during thehot fixing stage; or preferably by temporarily canceling all feeds, byexcluding the yarn feeders and by subsequently temporarily stopping theproduction cycle. Now, according to the jacquard design and to the workcycle, only programmed needles, which are grouped and placed adjacentlyin the specific case, are selected again and sent to at least ayarn-free ascending cam (not shown) so that they can be completelyraised. The maximum raising of these needles results in two importantsituations: all their latches L automatically open and place themselvesover the last stitches B, which are still laid in the needles, such as1-3 in FIG. 27. The following descent stage of said needles is shown inFIGS. 32-33-34. The needle A of FIG. 32 begins its descent and the laststitch B, placed close against the stem of said needle, gets under thelatch L and starts to close the latter automatically and progressively.If the needle descent goes on, said latches will be completely closed,FIG. 33, and will work as “bridges” for said stitches B, which are thendefinitely detached, as in FIG. 34. Simultaneously, also the fabricsinkers PM get back progressively and radially following arrow F,synchronously with the descent movement of the needles A. According tothe invention the progressive discharge of said stitches B from theconcerned needles preferably takes place after the production of one ormore previous courses made of non-run fabric MI, FIG. 2, i.e. knowntextile structures characterized by the simultaneous presence of normalstitches, laid-in stitches and welts, said terms being known to peopleskilled in the art. As a matter of fact, in order to avoid unwantedruns, it is provided for a textile preparation stage according to whichthe last knitted courses produced before the last knitted course orwaste W, FIG. 6, are characterized by knitted structures of net ornon-run fabric, with variable thicknesses which are electronicallycontrolled via a computer by the corresponding motorized knitting cams(not shown), together with the optional use of suitable yarns, forinstance thermo-adhesive yarns, or anyhow melting gradually interlacingwith the adjacent stitches. In this operating stage the total dischargeof the stitches from the programmed needles causes within the knittedtube a horizontal continuous opening in the direction of the courses,which then forms a fabric half-ring (2 and GC, in FIGS. 2 to 8) onlypartially connected with the manufactured item. According to theinvention, since the manufacturing process should necessarily bere-started, the needles which are now disengaged and temporarilyfabric-free are selected and progressively directed onto at least anascending cam following pre-defined selection sequences such as forinstance 1:6 (or 1:3, an operating needles and three excluded needles)and 1:1. On the basis of technical-textile contingent features first allneedles and/or only half of the disengaged needles, the odd onesafterwards for instance, take up the ready yarn again to re-startknitting in at least a feed, for the production of a hem or double weltDB, or two-layer welt, such as Bi (inner frill) in FIG. 26. At thebeginning of their ascent the needles which are still disengaged andwith still closed latches L find on their obligatory path alatch-opening device AL which forcedly opens said latches.

The described procedure is schematically shown in FIG. 30: the latch Lis still against the jack of the needle U into which a latch-openingmetal tip AL is automatically placed, operating until the latch L isopened and overturned in the direction of arrow F. FIG. 31 is a planview of a portion of the cylinder CYL rotating in the direction of thearrow F, with the jack or hook U of the needle against which the latch Land the adjacent latch-opening device AL are placed. The jack or hook Uof the needle, adhering to the latch L, finds on its obligatoryascending path the latch-opening device AL, which has been introduced tothis specific purpose. Once the needle latches have been opened aspreviously described (in other embodiments the latch is opened by meansof a suitable intake of compressed air coming from above, or by means ofa thin plate inserted between the hook and the latch), the knittingprocess starts again.

According to the present invention the second knitting cycle re-startsboth with a single or with a double welt such as DB in FIGS. 2-3-4 bythe fixed selection of alternated needles such as Bi in FIG. 26. Inorder to obtain different aesthetic and commercial results, the knittingprocess can also be re-started in a different way, i.e. with a number ofneedles which has been greatly reduced with respect to normalconditions, the so-called needle discard, so as to produce one or morezones in which fabric is replaced by floating yarns which are generallyindicated with FF in the various figures. The best results can usuallybe obtained by excluding for a relatively long period a suitable numberof needles since the beginning of the knitting process, though by takingsuitable precautions satisfying results can also be obtained in otherpositions of the manufactured item, provided that the stitches aresuitably discharged by the needles which have to be disengaged from theknitting process. The above-described technique therefore allows toproduce almost in every part of the manufactured item the holesgenerally indicated with H, having different purposes. In FIG. 6, thefabric ring 2 or neck portion GC, only partially connected with theunderlying knitted tube 1, is preferably and successively introducedinto the central hole H following arrows F, or otherwise, until it takeson the shape and functions of the neck portion GC in FIG. 8. By suitablycoordinating the width of the aforesaid hole H with suitable structureof open-work fabric JO in the central zone CA and around the breast,which is produced with expressly larger fabric MA, said neck portion GCin FIG. 8 also has functions of anatomic support of the breast zone.

A variation of the described technique is shown in FIG. 5: in thespecific case the double-welt bands, referred to in FIG. 2 with numerals2 and 3, which were first clearly separated from the knitted tube 1, arethen introduced one into the other to obtain original combinations andaesthetic and functional connections which can also apply to other casesbeyond the example shown. As far as FIGS. 3-4-6 are concerned, the zonebetween the breasts is widely characterized by a plurality of floatingyarns FF, placed directly under the opening H; to various aesthetic andfunctional purposes said floating yarns can also be differently knitted,as indicated in FIGS. 24B and 24C. In the case of FIG. 6, the width ofsaid floating yarns FF gradually decreases because of the progressiveprogrammed introduction of the disengaged needles into the knittingcycle. On the contrary, if the width of the manufactured floating yarnshas to be gradually increased, the needles placed at the ends aregradually excluded from the knitting process after discharging the laststitches. FIGS. 9 and 10 show a pectoral band or brassieres 1,characterized by a vertical area CA covered with floating yarns FF,which can be placed on the opposite side of the knitted tube or indifferent places in other embodiments. Said brassiere, which ispartially folded inwards for a half turn of 180°, FIG. 11, takes on aninteresting anatomic shape especially on the central portion K, whichcan be better seen in the embodiment of FIG. 12, because of the completeturn corresponding to 360°. The aforesaid pectoral band or brassiere 1of FIGS. 9 and 10 can be anatomically shaped on the breast as shown inFIGS. 13 and 14, i.e. by forcedly approaching welts 2 and 3 (which canalso overlap, FIG. 13) and by pressing them with a suitable additionalelement 9, which can indifferently be a snap-hook, a buckle, a ringconsisting of two half-rings fitting one into the other, or simply theknot K of FIG. 15. FIGS. 9 and 10 can also represent different knitteditems produced in the same way, for example a scarf. FIGS. 16 and 17relate to other knitwear items 1 falling within the framework of theinvention, characterized among other things by various combinations offloating yarns FF alternated to jersey fabric MJ. In particular, thelower hem of the manufactured item 1 in FIG. 16 is further characterizedin that the original floating yarns, which are then cut along line LT,descend following arrow F and take on the final position FFC which makesthem similar to a fringed hem. On its side the lower hem of themanufactured item 1 in FIG. 17 is characterized by the presence offloating yarns FF alternated to fabric, which are centrally gatheredtogether by at least a tuck stitch PT, a term known to people skilled inthe art. Table 3 shows details of other embodiments falling within theframework of the present invention. FIG. 18 shows the initial portion ofa knitted tube 10 provided with a double welt BD with the front centralportion characterized by floating yarns FF. The knitted portion 10 isfolded on itself and acts as a collar. In FIG. 19 the different presenceof floating yarns FF produces a final result which is closer to theanatomic shape of traditional collars 11. FIG. 20 shows a differentembodiment completed by the tie T inserted between the double welt BDand the floating yarns FF of the collar 11. In FIG. 21 the tie T isinserted into the only hole H made according to the invention. Thereforethe collar 11 of FIGS. 20 and 21 takes on in a more evident way theshapes and functions of the traditional shirt collar, completed by thetie T. FIGS. 22 to 23A show the pants 1 characterized by the presence offloating yarns FF preferably placed in central position. In FIG. 22 theplurality of floating yarns FF is on the front portion of the pants 1and their beginning takes place after the stitch discharge causing holeH. FIG. 22A shows the floating yarns FF which have to be cut along LTfor the final knot F of FIG. 22B. DB-Bi indicates the double weltsproduced according to the invention at the beginning of the new workcycle. The rear portion of the pants 1 is shown in FIG. 23; thedifferent lies in that the extension of floating yarns is graduallyreduced according to the technique described above so as to anatomicallyshape the manufactured item for a better wearability and comfort. InFIG. 23A the rear portion of the pants 1 is further characterized byfloating yarns interrupted by some operating needles which arediagonally spaced with a sequence varying from 1:3 to 3:1, i.e. anoperating needle followed by three excluded needles, or vice versa, asequence with diagonal rotation which is similar to hosiery knownmicromesh, preferably without any tuck stitches. More generally, wideand vertically repeated floating yarns can be further handled andgathered together in the central portion in a butterfly shape by meansof suitably placed isolated needles operating in laid-in position, aterm known to people skilled in the art. The details of execution of thepresent invention can equally vary as far as shape, dimensions and/orarrangement are concerned, and also for the nature of the technicaland/or textile materials used, though always falling within theframework of aims of the present patent.

What is claimed is:
 1. Method for automatically producingthree-dimensional tubular knitwear items, in circular knitting machinesprovided with at least a cylindrical needlebed (CYL), characterised inthat it comprises the steps of: inactivating and excludingautomatically, for a predetermined time interval, at least apredetermined number of adjacent needles (A) of the needlebed (CYL),said excluded needles having corresponding stitches, said excludedneedles discharging said corresponding stitches, said excluded needlesbeing chosen from at least a defined knit area of the needlebed (CYL),and with a plurality of remaining working needles (A) of the needlebed(CYL) and with continuous motion of the needlebed (CYL), producing afirst length of tubular knitted fabric (1) having an annular shape andhaving a plurality of floating yarns (FE) in a zone of the knitted item(1) corresponding to said defined area of the needlebed (CYL).
 2. Themethod according to claim 1 characterised in that at least a part ofsaid predetermined number of needles (A) discharges the correspondingstitches only progressively.
 3. The method according to claim 1characterised in that it further comprises, before said step ofinactivating and excluding at least a predetermined number of adjacentneedles (A), the step of producing a second length of tubular knittedfabric (1), said predetermined number of needles (A) completelyreleasing and discharging the corresponding stitches (1) during saidstep of inactivating and excluding from the knitting process saidpredetermined number of adjacent needles (A), whereby at least anopening (H) is produced between said second length and said first lengthof the knitted item (1), in a zone corresponding to said defined knitarea.
 4. The method according to claim 1 characterised in that itfurther comprises the steps of reintroducing said predetermined numberof needles (A) in the knitting process after said predetermined timeinterval, by an automatic and programmed resumption of knitting withsaid predetermined number of needles (A), and producing, after saidfirst length of knitted fabric (1), a third length of tubular knittedfabric (1).
 5. The method according to claim 1 characterised in that itfurther comprises the step of cutting said floating yarns (FF), in aphase subsequent to the knitting process of the knitted item (1), toobtain in said zone of the knitted item an opening (H) with fabric edgesprovided with fringes (FFC).
 6. The method according to claim 3characterised in that it further comprises the steps of: reintroducingsaid predetermined number of needles (A) in the knitting processimmediately after said step of inactivating and excluding from theknitting process at least a predetermined number of adjacent needles (A)of the needlebed (CYL), by an automatic and programmed resumption ofknitting with said predetermined number of needles (A), and resuming theknitting process with both the excluded needles (A) and the remainingneedles (A) and producing a third length of tubular knitted fabric (1),thus providing at least an opening (H) in the knitted item (1) betweensaid second and said third length of knitted fabric (1), in said definedarea of the needlebed (CYL) corresponding to the excluded needles (A),with a controlled partial separation of two theoretically consecutivestitch courses.
 7. The M method according to claim 6 characterised inthat the dimension of said defined knit area is less that 360° anddetermined in order to obtain an opening (H) defining in said item atleast a fabric stripe, neck portion (GC), half-ring, loop, shoulderstrap (SD,SS) or brace, which is at least partially connected to theknitted item (1).
 8. The method according to claim 7 further comprisingthe step of providing said shoulder straps (SD,SS), braces and/oropenings (H) with hemmed fabric and with at least a single or doublelayer welt (BD), said welt being produced with the needles (A) of thecylindrical needlebed (CYL) and by means of a second needlebed or dial.9. The method according to claim 7, further comprising the step ofproviding said shoulder straps(SD,SS), braces and/or openings (H) withhemmed fabric and with at least a single or double layer welt (BD), saidwelt being produced with the needles (A) of the cylindrical needlebed(CYL) by producing two layer inner frills (Bi) with a fixed selection ofalternated needles (A).
 10. The method according to claim 4characterised in that at least a part of said predetermined number ofneedles (A) is reintroduced in the knitting process progressively. 11.The method according to claim 1 in which said step of inactivating andexcluding from the knitting process at least a predetermined number ofadjacent needles (A) of the needlebed (CYL) comprises the step ofinterrupting the knitting process with all the needles (A) of theneedlebed (CYL) in non-working position and all the yarn-feedersexcluded and releasing the loops of the knitted fabric (1) engaged tosaid predetermined number of excluded needles (A), while the remainingneedles (A) of the needlebed (CYL) retain their loops of knitted fabric(1).
 12. The method according to claim 1, comprising providingautomatically said items with one or more one or more shoulder straps(SD,SS), neck portions (GC), half-rings, openings and/or floating yarns(FF), operating with the continuous motion of the needle cylinder and bythe temporary and gradual interruption of the knitting process for agroup of adjacent needles (A) discharging corresponding stitches, indefinite fabric areas, less than 360°, followed by the automatic andgradual re-start of the knitting process, with the same needles (A) orin the same definite fabric areas, after the intervention of mechanicalor pneumatic elements working as latch-opening devices (AL), for thecontrolled separation of two knitted courses which are theoreticallyconsecutive and also partially overlapping; said courses beingcharacterised in that one of them represents the last course of knittedfabric (1) produced before said interruption and the other one the firstcourse produced after said interruption, thus obtaining finished andsemi-finished tubular knitted items without cutting and sewingoperations.
 13. The method according to claim 7 characterised in that itcomprises the steps of folding and introducing or connecting at leastpartially said fabric stripe, neck portion (GC), half-ring, loop,shoulder strap (SD,SS) or brace in at least a hole or other opening (H)of the manufactured item (1).
 14. The method according to claim 7characterised in that it comprises the steps of folding and introducingor connecting at least partially said fabric stripe, neck portion (GC),half-ring, loop, shoulder strap (SD,SS) or brace in at least a hole orother opening (H) of another knitted article, textile manufactured itemor accessory.
 15. The method according to claim 7 characterised in thatat least a portion of said neck portion (GC), half-ring or other fabricstripe is produced with a plurality of floating yarns (FF) instead ofthe fabric (1).
 16. The method according to claim 1 characterised inthat the knitting process of the excluded needles (A) is preceded by theintervention of latch-opening devices (AL) and starts again onlyprogressively with selected needles (A) always following an alternatedorder, in at least a feed provided with yarn.
 17. The method accordingto claim 1 characterised in that the discharge of the stitches from partof the needles (A) is carried out after the production of, one or moreknitted courses.
 18. The method according to claim 1 characterised inthat the discharge of the stitches from part of the needles (A) takesplace by totally lowering said needles (A) without new yarn under apulling-down plane of the sinkers (PM), synchronously with a radialremoval of the latter.
 19. The method according to claim 1 characterizedin that it further comprises the step of turning inwards or folding onitself, for at least 180°, at least a part of the manufactured item (1).20. The method according to claim 1 comprising the step of introducing aportion of the knitted item (1) into a connection element (9, K), tojoin up two opposite welts (2,3) of the knitted item (1).
 21. The methodaccording to claim 3 characterized in that at least a part of the holesand openings (H) are fabric-free and are covered with alternatingfloating yarns (FF) produced according to a design pattern or work cycleof the textile machine.
 22. The method according to claim 1characterized in that it further comprises the step of gatheringtogether said floating yarns (FF) by means of tuck stitches.
 23. Themethod according to claim 1 for producing a shirt having a collar(10,11) comprising the step of providing said collar (10,11) with anopening (H) or a plurality of floating yarns (FF) adapted to allow theintroduction of a tie (T) in said hole (H) or between said floatingyarns (FF).
 24. Knitted item as obtainable by a process according toclaim 1 characterized by at least a first initial double welt (DB), alsoelastic, followed by at least an opening (H) or neck portion (GC),followed by a suitable number of knitted courses and with the presenceof floating yarns (FF) instead of the fabric (1) according to a designpattern or discharge of needles (A) or needle groups, and ending with afinal double welt (DB), also elastic.